This summer I achieved something that I have wanted to do for a long time, which was to walk the entire course of the River Lea from the source to where it flows into the Thames.

I consider the Lea to be “my” river. It rises a short distance from where I live in Leagrave and flows through the centre of Luton. So in a way it has always been there in the background. However, I have been wanting to explore it more deeply and walking its length seemed like a good way to do that.

I did the walk over five days. With gaps in between. Starting each walk at the same place I left off the previous walk. Using public transport to travel back and forth.

Day 1 (7 April 2023): Leagrave to Hatfield

I used the bank holiday to start my River Lea walk.

The first step was to walk from my house to the source of the river in Leagrave Park. Then the first stretch was very familiar. Walking from Leagrave into Luton town centre and out the other side. The path then followed along the East side of the Lea valley as the river flows South East out of Luton, before dropping down into the valley itself to cross to the other side. Then there was a stretch up way from the river and across some fields before dropping down into Harpenden.

I had planned to stop for a break in Harpenden but my route took me further out from the centre than I expected missing most of the pubs. I think I got the route here a bit wrong having to walk along the busy B653 for a bit. But I was able to drop down closer to the river as I continued along to Wheathampstead. Here I stopped and had a pint in The Swan.

I got a bit lost leaving Wheathampstead, somehow walking around in a circle and ending up where I started and then going on a diversion across some fields before finding the right path. This took me up the valley side through some woods and then through the grounds of Brocket Hall. Leaving the grounds of the estate I dropped back down into the valley closer to the river as I reached the outskirts of Welwyn Garden City. There was an awkward bit where the river is channelled under the A1(M) where I actually got my feet wet. From there I entered Stanborough Park and walked alongside its lakes. From there I followed a path under a railway line and along a track so that I could then get to a main road (A1000) which I could walk along into Hatfield.

This walk was probably a bit longer than I should have attempted and possibly should have been done over two days (breaking at Harpenden). So I was rather exhausted at the end. The final bit walking to Hatfield Station was painful. From there I got the train back home via Kings Cross.

Day 2 (22 April 2023): Hatfield to Ware

From Hatfield Station I retraced my steps to rejoin the route at Mill Green. This section of the walk is where the Lea flows roughly East to West and actually to the North a little. I also found that the stretch between Hatfield and Hertford is not very well served by footpaths close to the river. I had to walk along roads (including the B158) for a long stretch. So this part was the least like a “walk along the river” of the whole walk. For instance I wanted see the point where the River Mimram joins the Lea, but this seemed to be inaccessible.

In Hertford I stopped for a break and a pint in The White Horse and then bought a very welcome sausage and chips.

Hertford is the point where the River Lea changes its character and becomes much more akin to a canal. I saw the first barges moored to the side of the river. From now on the route allowed me to stick much closer the Lea itself as I could use the towpath. Which I followed through flat and open country until Ware.

Day 3 (5 May 2023): Ware to Enfield Lock

At Ware the river takes a decided turn to the South. So this section was a straightforward walk down the towpath by the side of the River Lee Navigation. Leaving Hertfordshire and entering Essex the route took me past many lakes. Just past Broxbourne I stopped to shelter from the rain and to have something to eat at The Crown. When the weather cleared I carried on through the River Lee Country Park. Eventually the walk took me under the M25 and to the outskirts of London.

Day 4 (20 May 2023): Enfield Lock to Hackney Wick

This was the London section of the walk. Rejoining the route from the station, I carried on down the River Lee Navigation passing large reservoirs to my left and often industrial estates to my right. Towards the end of this section the landmarks of the Olympic park came into sight. Here I turned off the towpath to find the Hackney Wick Overground station.

Day 5 (27 May 2023): Hackney Wick – Olympic Park – River Thames

The final leg of my River Lea walk was “through the East End to the Docks”. However, I realised it was going to be a comparatively shorter walk than the other sections I had walked. So I started by doubling back on myself a bit. Leaving Hackney Wick station I retraced my steps some way up the River Lee Navigation towpath but in the opposite direction. When I reached a point where the River Lea branches off the Lee Navigation at the top of Hackney Marshes I turned to follow the course of the river southwards. This took me through Hackney Marshes and into the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and past the London Stadium where the river and the navigation merge.

I passed the historic Three Mills Island and the entrance to the Limehouse Cut to a point where the river becomes noticeably much wider. It is here that the river becomes a tidal estuary and is known as Bow Creek. It was at a fairly low tide when I walked along it. Unfortunately there is a point where the river path is blocked off and I got rather confused about how to continue. In the end I had to go on a fairly long diversion to walk around an industrial estate and rejoin the path near where the A13 crosses over the river. Here the river becomes very windy, doubling back on itself twice, before it finally reaches the River Thames at a point opposite The O2 (Millennium Dome as was). I had a bit of trouble navigating this bit on foot but found a way to get to the river mouth itself at Trinity Buoy Wharf.

After a little dance of triumph and a celebratory cold drink at the handy nearby cafe, I set off westwards to find a DLR station at the train home.

You can find some more photos from the walk here.